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Green LED flashes whenever the bottom left voltage input complex blue wave crosses the upper or lower pre-set limits.
Green trace shows those crossings as digital pulses.
A 0v green trace of no pulse is indicative of the wave residing within the upper and lower limits.
All three lights remain on steady also when the wave resides between these limits.
Top lamp flashes to indicate when the upper limit is crossed.
Bottom lamp flashes to indicate when the lower limit is crossed.
Make these changes as reqd:
You can set the orange (lower limit), and the red (upper limit) by altering each shown battery at the opamps.
You can also alter the bottom left Voltage Source to:
1: Change the 'D.C. voltage' bias complete wave position up or down (to avoid -ve battery values if reqd).
2: Make the 'Amplitude' of the entire blue wave peaks greater or less.
3: Alter the 'Frequency' of the wave, without it's amplitude being altered. (best stick to less than 25kHz here).
You could invert the 0v green trace at the final Nmos drain here, and output it with an appropriately adjusted voltage to a further Nmos gate for switching a lamp or motor to be fully on (using any varying input at the bottom left voltage source here, as per your desired limits with a suitably adjusted input amplitude).
So ... You can end up with good control of full high voltage on/off switching by starting with a complex low voltage input.
I've not built this yet, but a general quad opamp like LM324 which I have a batch of lying around here for a few years now (which uses a single battery supply... and ignore the other inbuilt two opamps unless you wish to develop it) and basic N-Mosfets such as modelled here as IRF 510n with a datasheet stated 10v Vgs of 0.54 Ohm Rds(on) should hopefully be fine.... I've made various breadboard working similar systems over the last few years, eg fridge temperature control, finger pulse heart beat etc. (I'm a bit rusty on the practical soldering now having endless unused boards in my cupboards).
Notice that the Mosfets are kept in a fully ohmic state... didn't want the output v altering from its fixed 5v at any time.
The lights are for interest ... you can not expect to see them flash in real time.
I'm more in to switching than amplifiers, but perhaps those who are interested in say class E amps, may find some interesting point here regarding ready made full input for further activity without the problems inherent in a rising/falling v where it is not wanted? (amplifiers, schmitt, hysteresis, caps and inductors are not part of this article).
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