Power supply design problem for a newbie. - updated.

It really doesn't look all bad. The basic connection is fine. I would make one suggestion, though. Just to make the scope look better, try not viewing the current waveforms as much. Unless necessary, they can give you a distorted view of what is going on. Viewing voltage waveforms are, in my opinion, easier to observe circuit action. I would say that most classically trained technicians view circuits in this way. Current wave forms have their own uses, but voltage waves will serve you better, especially when you are a newbie. For clarity... Scope readings on a wire = voltage traces. Scope readings on a device typically = current traces. Have fun!

Oh yeah... where did you get 700-800 Amps from. Yes, that would be way too much for a standard outlet.

I might have a idea but I dont know if its stable.

Transformer 60:8 and 2.5ohm resistor before your lamp will get you 14.2v at 648ma. How is that?

First thing which is wrong is the amplitude AC source 120Vrms is in peak 170V.

That is true hurz. But it is a parameter not within his control, at this time.

I think we missed asking bmstraight081 just what he believes the problem is. What do you say, bm? NO... I will NOT refer to him as bm (for short). Maybe... Big Man. That's better. Whatever you want, Big Man. So, what is the problem, as you see it. Your circuit does work.

Please lets not insulting the poster...

I haven't been called big man in a long time. Haha. Anyway. Am I wrong for thinking the standard 110-125 volt walk outlets are 120 vac usually and that its a voltage that's actually +120 and -120 because I seem to remember reading somewhere that they applied so much DC voltage to it. Where it's possible to add a 60VDC off set to it. Really I'm just wanting to build a stout power supply for a car stereo amplifier I just had laying here collecting dust. I have to torodial transformers for going to 120 to 12 volts at 300 watts (25A @ 12v???) and a couple 68000 uF capacitors(68 mF on here, since it doesn't go that high in actual "uF" range rate for 25 volts and three 23000 MFD 40VDC (that's how they are marked and I'm really kinda confused in that too because I understand uF is microfarad, but I've found some to use and "m" instead but never really came across a "M". They came out of some broken marine radios, so I assumed that as far as them being amplifiers essentially the capacitors would be more that capable. I've been saving them to actually build myself a decent amp for my home theatre system but like I said still learning. The amp has two 15A fuses with one for each side so I'm again assuming that's going to require 30A so I was going to parallel wire the two transformers (although, that's not the circuit I posted this was based on a single transformer just for a trial run more or less. Don't want to get anything especially myself :). I thoughts are this 2 120 to 12v torodial transformers in parallel from the wall each running to its own rectifier and then to a 68000 uF capacitor each and the parallel wire from the capacitors to the 12v and ground terminals in the amp with a small wire connected to to make sure the power is strong and stable an will allow me to really power up the amplifier. And

Sorry. Sent in wrong. But the small wire would be the on of switch connected to the remote terminal so that the capacitors would always be charged(again still kinda fuzzy on that too). Any help would be. Awesome though. And thank you for posting. The 700-800 Amps from my theoretical walk our let threw me for a loop here so I'm very hesitant to even try that and ends up hurting myself or burning the apartment down.

Also to further complicate this my apartment is one of those nightmare 3 prong outlets with no ground wire attached. But if it helps any I have a computer battery backup PSU/ surge protector I planned to use since it has an auto voltage regulation feature. Because my outlets frequently like to drop to 105VAC on my multimeter from time to time. Whole apartment operates on a single 30 amp breaker, how I don't really know.

Ok. So I went through and corrected a few things and am still having an issue but just don't know what. Made the primary and secondary turns the same as their corresponding voltages. Which honestly might just be

Worth remove the transformer from the diagram and just having the 12VAC come directly from the ac voltage source. Which would be the transformer but was hoping a could see the power specs from plug to the light bulb, which changed back match my specs I said and changed the capacitor values to match up with the 68000 uF capacitor. Now I would think if you did one turn for on me volt in the transformer I would give you at least the proper voltage output and some how I'm still getting only 1V at the light bulb. I made. Is us AC power 60 VAC AND 60 DC swinging from 0 to 120 or 120 peak to peak like I'm thinking. Just don't see how you could have a negative current flow like some power supply's do if you don't at least start with some form of truly negative voltages. I'm probably really wrong about that I have a feeling. I may just be way off in Left-field picking the dandelions. Any help on this questions would be great. The reason I think that the 120 AC is really 120 because a multimeter reads the positive peak of the wave so it would see 120 even with it being 60/60, but my multi meter I very specific not to mix AC and DC up because it may be damaged???? I really don't know any guidance would be great. Thank you.

Most digital volt meters (DVM) won't be affected by a combination of AC & DC. They should display the parameter selected. A DC setting should display only the DC component of the wave. An AC setting should display only the AC component. A combination of both should not harm a modern DVM. A DVM does not read just the positive side of the wave. The DVM measures the full wkave, calculates and displays the RMS of the given wave. The full wave Peak-to-Peak is 2.828 x RMS. THUS, the 120 volts RMS is in actuality 333.36 volts P to P, when viewing a sine wave. That you will see on an oscilloscope. DVM shows RMS AC voltage. An oscilloscope displays Peak to Peak voltages.

Think about this: You can be way out in left field and still be in the ballpark. OR You can be in the ballpark and still be way out in left field. It all depends upon your viewpoint.

I am going to guess that your training of electronics is not formal, but perhaps mostly done on your own. No offense intended. A lot of the assumptions you have come up with are very untrue. For instance, there is no 60/60 division of voltage in the U.S.. Also,there is no DC offset at all. There is only one 120 volt RMS voltage going from negative, rising through 0 and up to the positive. You need to spend time on understanding the difference between Peak to Peak and RMS voltage. Another point, just because your device has two 15 amp fuses doers not mean that it takes 30 amps to operate it. The fuses are there to break the circuit if the device draws more than 15 amps. They are safety fuses. The information about electrical measurements and other things, are very incorrect. I really want to suggest that you invest in some good electronics books, before you do some damage to yourself. I am not trying to insult you. I want you to learn about electronics in the correct way. This will help you become successful. Our group is here to help you,but you need to have a good basic understanding of electronics before starting. We can't teach you all of it, but we will certainly help you as needed. I hope this helps.