1000w car audio amp

Ahhh, just like me :p haha, you're talking a lot of current, you'll need a handful of N and P channel power mosfets and a power inverter to supply the power for the amp to move the subwoofer and whatnots. I'll try my best to make one now that you've re-peaked my interest in that subject

read all of this and make some amplifiers. http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/TheTransistorAmplifier/TheTransistorAmplifier-P1.html

1kW is not exactly a gentle introduction to amp construction (or gentle on your ears lol). Good luck!

Yeah, lol I don't wanna slash your hopes of glory but, you are getting WAY ahead of yourself trying to tackle a 1000W amplifier as your first project! Omg. I'd bet money that if the situation was the same, Einstein himself would Fail! It's just, too much man- check out the website @faceblast suggested and before you open up one of those topics, take a minute to scroll AAaaalll the way down that list, you'll see what I mean...

Take your favorite ACDC cd, Buy several BIG batteries at autozone, several inverters, place in back of pickup, drive to several goodwill stores, buy all old stereo equipment,amps speakers,cables and wire and extension cords, get several friends,drive out in the desert, figure out how to hook it all up, then ...well a 1000 watt amp is still harder and for quality components maybe more expensive. I bought the kitsomponent packages from talkingelectronics.com for $45 or so and have built a couple of their amps and they really work. Great place to start and posting stuff here with these awsome critics to help learn and they make it fun? LOL LYHO

we are using 1000 watts power amp in small to medium size venue with 100 volts supply voltage from the outlet or frm portable generator.

Is it factory made and is it one you are copying from, cuz that would be awesome, groovy, beautiful to have two hooked up side by side. Good luck . Post the progress, love to hear how it goes

Handling 1000WattRms audio power at 12V is a funny thing. 1000W/12V=~83A! Accpect a voltage converter and amplifier with each efficency of 90% we are close to 100A! 100A over contacts, wires and battery resistance with 10mOhm will cause 1V voltage drop. So your 12V supply drops to 11V which will cause more current to still get 1000W. So we are by 112Ampere! And 10mOhm is not bad. Even if you buy ready components amplifier this will be not an easy project! Keep us informed.

Is that 1000w per channel and how many channels? More curiosity, is that peak watts or rms watts? Cause peak ain't so bad, but 1000w rms.......LOL. And what kind of car or you putting it in? 'Cause some car computers will quit due to vibrations and emf from aftermarket monster systems.

rattles all the screws out of the interior

Is a ground.

Supposed 1000 watt amplifiers for cars... in fact, all car amplifiers are rated using a peak impulse method that incorporates peak impulse overdriving the power supply and peak impulse signal input and to preserve the damn things just long enough to get some completely unrealistic rating they are also frozen with liquid nitrogen etc. A small pile of amps are blown up until the temperature, supply voltage peak and input signal voltage peak are all dialed in just right to produce a bullshit rating so people will buy them.

Bigger IS NOT better. Higher efficiency IS better. If you build an amplifier for your car and design it to run right off of the 12 - 15 volt power that is available, you can get a solid 30-50 watts RMS out of each channel. Our didn't sound like a lot of power but in a car... that's a lot of power and using a real linear power supplied approach to a design you will find that your 30 watts sounds 100 times better than a PWM bullshit switching supplied car amp with no damping and no balls. The other thing is that you will find really crap sensitivity specs on almost any car speaker. But if you go for high Q and hence lower wattage speakers with less mechanical mass you will be looking at non car audio stuff but you'll find that a speaker with a say 25-50 watt rating and a sensitivity rating above 90dB 1w/1m will not only get very loud if properly loaded (enclosure design) and crossed over but it will also cover a much greater number of octaves or bandwidth and it will sound better than anything else... assuming you're listening to decent music that has any real production and talent in it.

I'm sorry to be stupid if you cross the wires can't you double the Ohms

A Brilliant Start!!

I sujest a Taramps DS800X4 FOR YOU.